About
a fortnight ago, a friend suggested me that I join him for a day's
excursion to see the wildflowers of “Kaas.” To be frank, I was
quite apprehensive at first, perhaps because of my ignorance. I had
imagined the place to be just acres of cultivated farm flowers like
say tulips or roses, stretching before my eyes. I had felt that such
farm acres, though no doubt looking stunningly beautiful, they were
not worth a day's excursion. I however, did some browsing and
research on the net. What I read and saw on net, was difficult to
grasp fully, but nevertheless I realised that it was a different kind
of a dish altogether and I booked my ticket for a bus for a round
trip excursion along with a couple of friends.
“Kaas”
is a plateau on mountain tops, located deep in the ranges of Western
Ghat mountains that are spread north-south, along India's western
seaboard. It is at a distance of roughly 115 Km from home town Pune
and can easily be approached, since there is an excellent road
leading right up to the plateau. After having taken the plunge, I am
now off to see this plateau, popularly known as “ Plateau of
flowers.” The bus has left my home town around 6.45 AM and we are
cruising at about 80-100 Km/Hour on the busy Pune- Bengaluru Highway.
“Kaas plateau” (17 d 43' N, 73 d 49' E) is situated about 25 KM
west of the historic city of Satara and we need to pass through the
town.
Meanwhile,
everyone in the bus appears hungry, having started rather early from
home. We stop at a highway food joint for our breakfast with a
typical Maharashtra style fare; “Kandapoha” ( Flattened rice
flakes, moistened and cooked after lightly frying with mustard seeds,
turmeric, chili powder and finely chopped onions ) and “VadaPau,”
(round cakes of hash brown mixed with spices; dipped in gram flour
paste; deep fried and inserted like a patty in two halves of a fluffy
bread piece) and finally, sugary, milky tea- the way it is prepared
all over India. While others are ravishing on the spicy grub, I have
a look at our motley group- travelling together. There are four of us
middle aged( with my exception being a senior citizen) and who have
come to see the wildflowers. There is group of three families with
full complement of kids of various ages, who probably have come for a
picnic or an excursion. Then there is a group of IT guys wearing
black rimmed frames, Bermudas, printed Tee shirts and above all,
expensive DSLR cameras hanging from their necks and telling the world
that they are on a serious photographic expedition. Then there is a
group of young student type group of boys and girls, fun loving type.
Finally there are couple of ladies travelling single, one of them
very talkative.
I find
out that I am the only senior citizen in the group, a black sheep or
an odd man out. I feel slightly dejected, but I finish my Tea, buy
some “Chikki,” ( A sugary sweet bar made from peanuts and sugar),
share it with my friends and then slowly walk back to the bus. Soon,
the bus leaves for Satara. Relaxed, I put on my iPod earphones and
doze off listening to the music. I wake up to the hourly-burly noises
of a city, which means that we have reached the Satara city. Soon the
bus takes a diversion and we are on the “Kaas” road. The bus soon
starts climbing uphill, which means that we are now climbing the
ridge that connects the “Kaas” plateau with Satara city. This
ridge consisting of several hills in tandem is fairly a long one;
about 20 Km.
As the
bus climbs up, I can see the landscape changing slowly to beautiful
lush green meadows, interspersed with shallow valleys and small
ponds, full of muddy water. This is natural because the south-west
monsoon rains are just withdrawing. Within next two or three weeks
all this will change, with lush green meadows changing over first to
yellow brown and then disappearing altogether, exposing the reddish
Lateritic soil underneath and patches of blackish basalt rocks. I,
however leave the future scenario at bay and concentrate on the
things around me as on the moment.
I also
notice the change in weather, which is turning surprisingly pleasant
with a cool refreshing breeze. The altitude of “Kaas” plateau is
above 1200 meters (4000 ft). This is the reason for this sudden
change in the weather, which ensures that our trip is likely to be a
pleasant experience. We cross some wooded groves, perhaps with trees
planted by forest department, but they make the environment soothing
to the nerves and rather charming for the first time visitor like me.
I see more green meadows ahead but now stretched longer and flatter.
The
total area of “Kaas” plateau is huge, about 1800 hectares (4500
acres) and as we enter this pristine land , what could be a better
welcome for us than the sudden appearance on both sides of the road
of stunning beautiful clusters of golden yellow flowers, swaying with
the breeze and dazzling on the widespread background of lush green
grass. The yellow wildflowers are known as Sonki (Senecio
bombyensis.) These are members of the large Asteraceae family to
which many commonly known flowering plants like the aster or daisy
belong.
The
bus moves among the flower meadows of yellow wild flowers. Soon I see
a barbed wire fence stretching on both sides of the road. I try to
look beyond the fence, I can clearly see small dots of pink, white
and purple in the greens. I know, we have arrived at “Kaas.”
2.
“Kaas”
plateau has a kind of soothing, mesmerizing effect on the eyes,
before any other thoughts can even enter our minds. The long flat
tableland, stretching on top of hills at a height of 1200 meters
(4000 ft), lovely lush green meadows with few short trees and a
curving road, bisecting the vast flatland in two halves, forms a
strikingly lovely picture frame in the mind. The authorities have
erected barbed chain link fences on both sides of the road to ban
entry of trespassers on the flat lands. This has resulted in strips
of reddish looking curbs on both sides of the road stretching to the
limits of vision along with the road itself. The road with terracotta
coloured side curbs, looks a perfect part of the landscape.
The
bus drops us near one of the entry gates. As happens in most of the
places related with tourism, I have to pay entry fees separately for
myself and for my camera. Latter charged as much as five times
compared to the former. There is a regular crowd here. I am surprised
at the number of visitors who have come to visit the place. Yet,
considering the fact that the flowering season of wildflowers lasts
just about 8 weeks and today being holiday, this crowd may not be
called as extraordinary. I enter through the gate. I see ahead a vast
table land covered not only with lush green turf but island patches
of pink and purple.
I
notice something strange. There are no tall grasses here at all.
Almost all the grasses and other flowering plants are of miniature
size, the tallest perhaps just a few inches tall. Apparently this is
so because the top soil layer, in which the plants grow, is wafer
thin with solid basalt rock below, which in some places is as deep as
even 3 Km. This wafer thin top soil does not allow the plant roots to
go any deeper and effectively plants just stay dwarfs.
But
what is so special about “Kaas” plateau? India's western ghat
mountains are spread over 1600 Km length in north-south direction.
There must be hundreds of plateaus on this mountain range. However no
single reason for this special favour shown by nature to “Kaas,”
can be given. It is more like a combination of factors such as
rainfall, temperature, humidity, type of soil, topography and micro
climate, that have created special conditions here for the
bio-diversity of plants to grow. Western ghat mountains get huge
amount of rain fall (3000-4000 mm) particularly on the western side,
where there are straight broken cliffs. The alternate spells of dry
and wet seasons over millions of years has developed cracks in the
sedimentary rocks like sandstones, limestones, granites and all
pervading basalt and has helped formation of laterites, which are
soils, rich in iron and aluminium. Nearly all laterites are rusty-red
because of iron oxides. Heavy monsoon rainfall leaches the laterites
formed in the rock cracks and brings it to the surface by capillary
action. This simple natural process has given the “Kaas” plateau
its fertile but wafer thin layer of the laterite soil.
That
is why the”Kaas” plateau with its specific environment, has been
found endemic by a vast number of plant species (103 numbers), which
can not be found anywhere else. The plateau has therefore become one
of the most important habitats for hundreds of plant species as as
well as a natural hotspot for conservation of biological diversity
that is difficult to find anywhere else. Recognising this fact,
UNESCO has included “Kaas” plateau in the list of places that are
natural heritages of the world. Besides normal flowering plants like
Impetiens (Terada), botanists have discovered here many exclusive
species of epiphytic orchids and most interestingly insectivorous
plants that survive on tiny insects abundantly found here.
The
foremost difficulty for anyone trying to learn about the flora of
“Kaas” is that almost all the plant that flourish here are so
tiny that unless you are an experienced botanist, it is almost
impossible to find the rare plants. Another difficulty is the timing.
There are more than 170 individual species and 103 endemic species
of plants that bloom here within the entire period of 8 to 10 weeks,
with each species in full bloom for 4 to 5 days. This means that
during a visit one can see only a few plant species in full bloom.
The situation at “Kaas” is therefore always in a flux. A visitor
might find the ground turned blue in one week, whereas in the next
week the same ground would look yellow. Since I am not a botanist and
have come here just to enjoy this fantastic laboratory set up by
nature to develop new species of endemic plants, I would be happy to
see whatever is in bloom and be satisfied with it. The wildflowers,
keeping with the size of their parent plants are also usually very
tiny, which means that a casual visitor, who has come here to see
some kind of tulip or rose farm is bound to get disappointed. The key
to “Kass” is to have patience and expert guidance.
Just
near the entry gate, in a small cluster of plants, I find my first
'A” class exhibit, obviously with the help of a guide. It is a tiny
plant almost of the size of a large spider. To me it appears more
like a small octopus with several limbs projecting out. On each limb
there are hundreds of hairy tentacles. The tiny plant is known as “
Indian Sundew, Davbindu” or Drosera ( Drosera
Indica) and is an
insectivorous plant. The hairy tentacles are fringed with gland tips
that produce dots of sticky liquid. The sticky liquid helps trap
insects, which are later absorbed. I can see few flower buds but no
flowers as it would take few more days to full bloom.
A
little further and to the left I can see some lovely purple flowers
and I start walking towards them.
3.
I have
in front of me, a fairly large sized field, full of small herbs with
most of them having a purple pink flower at the top. On careful
observation, they turn out to be Impatiens or “Terda” flowers (
Impatiens laweii) with leaves directly growing from the herb stalk
itself.
In the middle of this sea of purple pink flowers, an island
cluster of erect shrubs catches my attention. This bunch is slightly
taller than the Impatiens and also has a flower of dark blue colour.
These are probably “Karvi” ( Strobilanthes callosus) flowers. I
look around; I can only see Impatiens flowers around. Surprisingly,
this perhaps is the only small cluster of these blue flowers that has
bloomed.
Toothbrush Orchid
Dipkadi
I walk
further ahead. In the sea of Impatiens around me, I can see two,
similar looking erect plants; both very similar to “Nishigandha”
or Tuberose with their white flowers. Yet, closer examination reveals
that they are quite different. The first one has all the flowers
grown out only in one direction at right angles to the stalk, like
bristles on a tooth brush. This one is actually an orchid or a plant
that survives on air and is called as “Toothbrush Orchid”
(Habenaria heyneana). The other one is known locally as “Suichi
Bhaji” or Dipcadi (Dipcadi montanum) and is actually from “Lily”
family. Toothbrush Orchid flowers are plain white whereas Dipcadi
flowers are greenish white.
Chavar
Utricularia
On my
left, I can see two more erect herbs that very much look like buds
with a multipetal structure. Actually, these are supposed to be
Rhizome ( plants with subterranean stem that is usually found
underground; like ginger for example) herbs and called as “Chavar”
(Hitchenia caulina). Ahead of them, I can see some blue flowers, with
a single bluish purple petal. This lovely little herb is actually an
insectivorous and survives on tiny insects. The blue petal has a
white spot in the middle, which in reality is a trap door. Whenever
any insect sits on this, the trap door folds inwards with the insect
falling inside the stem, where it is consumed. The plant is known as
“Sitechi Asave” or Utricularia (Utricularia purpurascens).
Topali Karvi
Kanher Valley
On my
right the flatland is now giving way to a slope leading to valley,
where I can see a huge reservoir of water. This one has been formed
by a dam built on “Kanher” river. On the sloping ground, I can
see a strange looking shrub. It has a perfect dome like shape and
looks alike a round wicker basket kept upside down. This is supposed
to bloom only once in seven years and the blue flowers produce a type
of honey considered medicinally important. It is called as “Topali
Karvi” or “Kharwar” or “Bukra ( Strobilanthes sessilis),
Eriocaulon
The
sea of purple pink Impatiens has now given way to white globules.
These balls of white flowers look like dots on green background. The
balls are actually clusters of small white flowers, bundled together
like a ball. Known as Eriocaulon or “Genthe” ( Eriocaulon
stellulatum).
Ahead
of me is a rocky patch. We decide to pause here and get our scattered
group together. The kids are running around, being very curious and
their parents rushing around trying to keep a tab on them. The single
ladies are engrossed in some serious talk. I hear a few words, while
passing by them. The talkative one is telling them about her
experiences in Atlanta. The IT guys are taking snaps with their
expensive cameras with giant sized zoom and close up lenses/ Their
poses bring smile on my face. I can see a guy with his head almost
dipped in a shrub, another one is lying down on ground, next to a
flower.
Karvi
After
an interval, the group reassembles and we continue to walk ahead. I
can see another shrub with hairy leaves and blue cup flowers jutting
out of the cream coloured buds. These are “Karvi” ( Strobilanthes
callosus) flowers all right. I am very much near the border fence
now, which would mean that my stroll in nature's genetic laboratory
is almost coming to an end. Then suddenly, my attention is drawn to a
small cluster of shrubs with turmeric yellow flowers. The flower has
three petals with two of them having large bright red spots that very
much look like eyes. The flower sometimes is jokingly called as
Donald Duck flowers. These funny looking flowers are known as “Berki”
or Smithia (Smithia bigemina). I find a particular flower that looks
like a Chihuahua.
Smithia
I look
at the watch, it's already 1.30 PM, which means that we have spent
almost 3 hours in this place without knowing how the time was spent.
Even when I have no knowledge of botany, I have found, with an
occasional help from an expert, this nature's laboratory to be one of
the most intriguing experience, wondering how and why nature creates
so many species and keeps them modifying.
Our
group waits for the bus, which has been parked at quite a distance.
By the time we reach Satara city it's already half past two. We march
to a decent place for lunch, where a vegetarian meal awaits us. After
the meal, we shall again drive up the western ghat hills, to visit
another majestic site before we start our journey towards home.
4.
After
lunch, we are on our way to hills of Western Ghat mountains once
again. This time we take a new route, which is still westwards but
slightly to the south. This road actually leads to one of the famous
forts from Maratha history “SajjanGadh,” called great not
because of any epic battles fought here, but because it was the place
of residence of one of the most revered saints of the seventeen
century Maharashtra, “ Swami Ramdas.” This fort still is an
important religious place and on two particular days of the Hindu
calender, devotees throng here even today, to worship Lord Rama.
However,
we have no plans to visit the fort. A after travelling a distance of
about 10 or 12 Km, we leave the winding road, that would climb up to
the “Sajjan Gadh” and push forward on a narrow mountain road,
along the hills.
Geologists
say that western ghat mountains are not mountains in their true
sense. They are actually the faulted edge of the Deccan plateau
formed during the break up of super continent of “Gondawana,”
some hundred and fifty million years ago. After this break up, as
Indian mainland kept drifting towards Asia, a huge volcanic explosion
took place around 65 million years ago depositing huge amounts of
lava that resulted into formation of the basalt rock here. All this
upheaval, created vertical cliffs and deep valleys along the western
edge of the mountains, creating a scary landscape of valleys as deep
as 3000 feet and mountain tops carved out of black basalt rocks.
During
the monsoon months (June to September), south-west monsoon winds
bring moisture laden heavy clouds to India's west coast. They meet
their first barrier, when mountain cliffs of western ghats present a
formidable obstacle to them. This makes the clouds rise higher and
while doing so, they let huge amount of moisture go off on the
eastern edge of the mountains. At these places, the rain fall is
extremely heavy, touching figures of 3000 to 4000 mm annually. Most
of the rain water just flows away, forming hundreds of rivers and
rivulets of various sizes. Because of the huge water flows in this
terrain, consisting of deep valleys, it is possible to see many
spectacular water falls along the entire ridge of Western Ghat
mountains. The list of waterfalls here is very long, however some of
the more famous falls can be listed as Palaruvi, Kedumari, Koosali,
Jog, Magod, etc. One of these big waterfalls is nearby and we are on
our way to visit it.
One of
the largest reservoir of water in the western ghat mountains, has
been formed at Koyananagar by damming the river Koyana. On the
eastern side of the reservoir, rises another mountain ridge of about
3000 feet height. Because of the extremely heavy monsoon rainfall,
hundreds or rivers and rivulets originate on this ridge and flow
either westwards into Koyananagar reservoir or eastwards. “Tarlee”
river is one such eastwards flowing river that originates on this
ridge. This river has been dammed on the ridge itself and forms a
small reservoir known as “Thoseghar Lake.” The river, further
flowing east-southeast, encounters a deep gorge at a place that is
roughly midway between two villages of “Chalkewadi” and
“Thoseghar.” The river jumps down in this gorge of at least 500
meter depth in a spectacular fall, breaking down in several streams;
out of these the two most prominent once have been named after “
Rama” and his brother “Laxmana.” The waterfalls are known by a
general name as “Thoseghar Waterfalls.”
The
bus stops and we all get down. There is a makeshift ticket booth,
where visitors need to pay a nominal entry fee. As usual, few shops
can be seen around selling cool drinks, tea and snacks. The tourism
department has built us a nice paved path for the visitors to go
deeper in the gorge so that they can view the falls in real glory.
To start with the steps are small and distanced apart. Soon the path
becomes narrow and steps become taller. The whole area is deeply
wooded and is a regular forest. After climbing down around 100 to
150 feet, I can see a crowded platform full of visitors, with
everyone making full use of the photo op. I reach the specially built
observation platformr. Ahead of me is a deep gorge around 500 meter
deep and the water oozing out from several streams on ridge top
appears to be jumping down with a careless kind of attitude. Some of
the falls are quite small; around 15 to 20 meters. The two big once
however, appear to be jumping straight down.
The
whole setting here is quite spectacular. The weather beaten,
vertically cut, cliff faces in basalt, look super imposing and the
deep gorge has some kind of eerie feel about it. The water releasing
itself into the gorge has a non benevolent, “I don't care”
attitude as it carelessly jumps down with a roar. After watching the
falls for few minutes, it is time to return. On way back we visit
another vista point, from where a better view of water just about to
jump down can be had. I take photographs and relax a bit before the
final climb up begins.
Soon I
am back to the spot, where our bus has been parked and after a
refreshing cup of tea, we start on our return journey. In just one
day, I have managed to see two of nature's great wonders. My mind is
filled with amazement and as I keep thinking about these two places,
I doze off.
*****
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