Singapore's Gardens by the bay: Celebrating nature with Hi-Tech excellence;
Part I
The
bounty of nature that awaits a visitor in any of the tropical
countries of the world is perhaps the first striking feature of his
visit to the tropics. Singapore in spite of being a metropolis is no
exception. If you leave a patch of land unattended here, within few
weeks it would get converted into a beautiful lush green meadow and
if left unattended for few years, the chances are there that a
regular tropical rainforest would grow there. I always feel that
Singapore or for that matter any of the tropical countries with their
fantastic range and array of flora and green foliage are the best
examples of celebration by nature.
Singapore
lately has been shading some of its fabulous green covers, in its
quest for becoming one of the leading cities of the world. Whether
due to a feeling of guilt, that they are robbing from people their
natural wealth given to them by mother nature or just for the
official reason given by the city planners, that they want to create
a city in a Garden, a new mega garden project has come up in
Singapore, aptly called as 'Gardens by the bay.'
Singapore
had till a decade ago a marshy, unused bay with a beach on it's east
coast, known as Marina Bay. I remember having visited it about a
decade ago. Though a metro rail MRT station existed there since long,
there was hardly anything there at that time that could enthuse a
visitor. There were few shops and eateries and a flat marshy
wasteland leading to a beach. About six or seven years ago,
Government decided to convert this bay into a sweet water lake and
built a barrage through which water could only overflow to the sea.
On the other shore of this bay, there already existed a garden known
as Kalang garden, but the shores on east and south remained
undeveloped. In January 2006, an international master plan design
competition was launched to seek world-class design ideas for Gardens
by the Bay. It drew more than 70 entries submitted by 170 firms, from
over 24 countries, including 35 from Singapore. An 11-member Jury
comprising local and international experts shortlisted eight teams
and two winners were announced in September 2006; namely Grant
Associates for Bay South and Gustafson Porter for Bay East, both from
the UK.
The
Ground breaking was held in November 2007 for Bay South Gardens,
after which, development of Bay East Gardens also commenced. Bay
East underwent reinstatement works and was opened to the public in
October 2011. Bay south garden was opened to public in June 2012 and
remains as Singapore's latest attraction for tourists.
Like
any other public place in Sigapore, South gardens also have a vast
underground parking place complete with a lift available, which
takes you straight to ticketing booths. It is however far cheaper to
buy tickets on line as we have done. As I came out from the parking
area lift, I see a long foot path covered with a weather shade,
leading to the two main attractions of the south gardens. The
landscaping around this foot path is done in a very aesthetic manner
with a large central tower completely covered with creeper and
climber plants blooming with flowers. A row of large sized seed
shaped decorative rocks gives visitors a group photo opportunity. The
covered path way, leads to a covered area in between two giant green
house domes. In Singapore's weather, which usually alternates between
blistering hot sun and torrential rain, this covered pathway and the
covered area between these domes is a must. I can see plenty of steps
for sitting down and a snack and drinks bar, in true Singapore style.
There are some interesting giant structures here in this covered
area. They resemble huge dried tree trunks, halfway eaten by
termites. Huge ants made from stainless steel are seen roaming on the
tree trunks.
We
decide to visit the green house dome on my right, called as 'Cloud
forest' first. An escalator takes me down to the basement level,
where the entry doors to this dome are located. With usual
thoroughness, our tickets are checked with bar code scanners and we
are let in. As the inner automatic doors open and the full inside
details of the cloud forest dome come in my view, my first reaction
is off total astonishment and awe.
A huge 35 meter high waterfall is
hitting the ground just ahead of me, sprinkling small droplets of
water in the already misty moist weather inside the dome. The
waterfall is coming from an edge of a central artificial mountain
created in the middle of the dome and shaped like a sharp mountain
peak. I start walking along the base of this mountain. The walls of
the mountain are covered with lush vegetation, which shroud this
tallest indoor waterfall of the world. These walls showcase plant
life from tropical highlands up to 2,000-metres height above sea
level. I can see a mixture of beautiful and fascinating orchids
blooming with lovely flowers, delicate ferns, colourful bromeliads,
whose leafs form cups that hold water and where many an insect
survive, dazzling perennial flower plants called begonias and
menacing carnivorous pitcher plants. All of these are epiphytic
plants that live on top of other plants in nature, they hardly
require any substrate for growing and are perfectly adapted for
growing here on almost vertical walls of this artificial mountain. I
have never seen before the carnivorous pitcher plants and they seem
to have many varieties and colours here, some of them looking very
ominous. There are also conifers like Swamp Cypress (Taxodium
districhum) and Tasmanian tree fern ( Dicksonia antartica) brought in
from Australia.
Soon I
reach the half way point round the mountain base, where an arrow
tells me that the way up is inside the mountain. They have high speed
lifts, which take me to the top, where a small gallery called as 'The
Lost World' has been constructed. I look outside. A superb view of
Marina bay emerges through the mist inside the dome. The lost world
gallery has many a plant species that have existed for Millions of
years on earth. Most of the plants here have a wild wacky look with
strange looking stems, carnivorous cups and none have large leaves.
There are many a varieties of fern and some really exotic and rare
plants like Pitcher palnts( Sarracenia spp.) Butterwort (Pinguicula
spp.) Sundew (Drosera spp.) and Venus fly catcher (Dioaea muscipula.)
They also have a miniature lake their at the center in true Japanese
garden tradition, with small island, teeming with these strange
looking bizarre plants.
From
the lost world a walkway emerges out in the middle of misty no where,
and I continue to walk along it. I realize that this walk way is
sloping down and would probably take me to the lower level. On the
mountain wall on my left, I can see hundreds blood red Anthurium
flowers, in their full glory. I recollect having seen these plants in
a greenhouse on a coffee plantation in Coorg, south India.
The misty
walkway finally takes me to the interior of the mountain, from where
I come down further to a large hall named as Crystal Mountain, which
really a collection of weird shaped Lime stone pinnacles known as
stalactites arranged in an impressive way and a lone stalagmite
dropping down from a steel structure fixed in the ceiling. A walk way
juts out of this hall and is called as treetop walk. I see a
beautiful fully blown white Magnolia flower in it's majestic glory,
which reminds me of my stay in California, where the entire street,
where I lived, was lined with these Magnolia tress that produced such
lovely fragrance when the white flowers bloomed.
Further
down, there are those mandatory kind of educational displays and
shows about ill effects of pollution, greenhouse effect. I just skip
through and come to a passageway named as secret garden, a world of
bizarre looking plants and ferns like Swamp Cypress and Tasmanian
Tree ferns and Black Tree ferns (Cibotium glaucum.) Pines, Gingkos
and Cycads (Ceratozamia sp and Lepidozamia sp) , which exist since
the Jurassic age, opens up.
I keep
walking enjoying the flowers and the plants and see a sign board that
says exit. My tour of this misty world is over. I come out and
realize that I am little tired. I decide to relax in the central area
with a cup of freshly brewed Earl Gray Tea. The next dome ahead is
known as Flower dome and the fliers in my hand say that I would be
enjoying some of world's finest flowering trees in there.
Part II
The
Flower dome in Singapore's latest attraction, Gardens by the bay, is
a huge columnless super structure, 38 meters high and sits on 1.2
hectors (about 3 acres) of reclaimed land. It has been fabricated
with a steel grid that acts like an eggshell. There are 3332 panels
of spectrally selective glass of 42 different shapes, which makes it
look like a giant puzzle. Unlike cloud forest dome, this one is
longish and looks like a giant snail.
The
weather inside the flower dome is dehumidified and cooled to 22
degrees Celsius, creating an atmosphere of eternal or perpetual
spring. The architects wanted originally to make it display plants
and flowers from the Mediterranean-type climatic regions, where the
temperature rises from 10 to 17 degrees Celsus and summer droughts
last from three to six months. But as things finally turned out
now, the dome displays flowering and other plants from five main
regions of the world with similar kind of climate: the Mediterranean
Basin, California, southern and western Australia, western cape of
south Africa and central Chile.
As
I enter the dome through the inner automatic doors, a stunning
multilevel Panorama stretching to almost 360 degree opens up before
my eyes. On my right, on an upper level I can see many varieties of
cacti and a collection of succulent plants from deserts from all
over the world. Just opposite me, on a lower level is a bewitching
array of colourful displays of the Flower Field, which reflects
different seasons, festivals and themes. On my left, there are all
kind of trees on lowered as well as elevated platforms that come from
specific regions of earth.
I
turn right and start my visit to the dome from a range of Cacti and
Succulent plants. Many years ago, our house garden in my home town of
Pune, used to have a section devoted to Cacti brought from Americas
by a friend. They are all gone now, but here in Singapore, in the
Garden by the bay, I am able to see and recognize many of the Cacti
varieties that we had in our house garden. These familiar varieties
of Cacti somehow give me a feeling that I am actually meeting some
long lost friends from my childhood. Some of the Cacti here have
lovely flowers. I immediately recognize the common Cacti like Prickly
Pear, Organ pipe and Pin cushion. A lonely Saguaro stands tall,
flanked by few other strangely shaped trees known as 'Baobas.' The
sign boards guide me to some exquisite varieties of Succulent plants
with water filled stems and dangerous sharp spikes given to them for
protection. These include South African Tree Grape ( Cyphostemma
Juttae), Madagascan Club
Foot ( Pachypodium
lemarei) and Bolivian
Wooly Cactus (Vatricania
guentheri).
On
other side of the aisle, there are funny looking trees that are bulky
at the top and slim at the bottom, exactly the other way of normal
trees. These are known as 'Baobas.' These funny looking trees
actually carry huge water tanks at the top which may hold 1500 to
7500 liters of water to survive in long droughts. The varieties on
display here include African Baobab from Senegal that weighs over 32
tons and Madagascan Ghost tree.
I
return to the entry area and stroll to my left, to explore the plants
displayed there. The first gallery I see is the Australian garden,
which boasts of some of the most exotic species from down under, like
Grass tree (Xanthorrhoea
glauca), which can
survive a bushfire, Queensland Bottle Tree ( Brachychiton
rupestris) with it's huge
belly and Kangaroo Paw (
Anigozanthos flavidus)
with flowers that look like Kangaroo paws.
The
next gallery has trees, shrubs and grasses from south Africa and is
called as South African Garden. Some of the exquisite displays here
include Tree Aloe ( Aloe
barberae) related to
Aloe Vera and King Super Bush ( Protea
Cynaroides). It's lovely
pink flower is South Africa's national flower. There are also many
shrubs here that have sharp needle like leaves and which are known as
'Fynbos' in south Africa. Just opposite this gallery is the South
American Garden with number of trees with large hulks. The exhibits
include Chilean Wine Palms, whose palm nectar is used for wine making
and Monkey Puzzle tree, whose branches grow in such weird way that
even monkeys may find it tough to climb them.
Further
along but on left and on an elevated platform are the lovely
flowering shrubs from California. These include California Tree Poppy
(Romneya coulteri)
also known as Fried eggs flowers, beautiful purple blue California
Lilacs (Ceanothus spp.)
and Coral bells ( Heuchera
species) that cover large
tracts of ground. Opposite to Californian Garden is the Olive grove
with its Olive (Olea europaea), Turkish fig (Ficus
carica) and Pomegranate (
Punica granatum)
trees that can grow very old.
On
right of Olive grove is the circular elevated gallery called as
Mediterranean Garden. This has several fully grown Date Palm (
Phoenix dactylifera)
trees found around Oases of the Sahara desert famous for its fruit;
dates. There is also a solitary Cork Oak ( Quercus
suber) tree along with a
Dragon's blood tree (Dracaena
suber), whose resin
produces a blood red colour.
I
go round the Mediterranean garden and on the other side is a large
floor area covered with plants blossoming with flowers of all shapes,
hues and shades. There are creepers and climbers on the walls. The
few types of flowers that I could recognize include, roses, tulips,
dahlias, cosmos, gardenias and Xenias. The list could go on and on.
It is one of the best flower displays that I have seen.
I
walk out of the dome and realize that I have spent more than 3 hours
watching the domes. The Gardens by the bay have many more attractions
like supertrees and heritage gardens. There is even a tree top
skyway. I decide to break for lunch and march to a nearby sandwich
bar called Cafe Crema. While having my lunch, my thoughts are still
centered on these two conservatories I have just visited. They are,
without least doubt, grand spectacles achieved with lot of hi-tech
excellence, but when Singapore can boast so much of its natural
beauty, endowed by nature to it in plentiful measures, aren't they
really unnecessary? Some people in Singapore seem to believe so. This
is one reaction from a local resident, I found on net.
“I
am from Singapore, not very impressed by these 'snails' that grew out
of reclaimed land. Greenhouses with mediterranean plants &
tropical plants, no matter how good the green technologies, it is
going to be unsustainable. Why do we need to contain & dictate
nature? Why not preserve more of our primary forests instead? the
artificial trees, sadly, do not remind us of the tropical rainforest
at all. (..a roof-top bar again?!)
It
is sad that our future environment is going to be made of structures
like these & maybe soon we will no longer remember how nature
looks like anymore.”
(I
must confess that I am no botanist and do not know names of most of
the trees and flowers and obviously have never before heard of their
Latin names. My source of information is the sign boards displayed by
the garden management and a nice booklet published by them.)
Part III
Entire
project of 'Gardens by the Bay' is one of the largest garden projects
of its kind in the world. When finished, the total site area would
occupy a staggering area of 101 hectares mainly of reclaimed land
beside Marina bay in downtown Singapore, and would comprise of three
distinct gardens – Bay South, Bay East and Bay Central. Bay South
is the first and largest of these three landscaped gardens of this
project, that is now completed. However the two conservatories,
called as “Cloud Forest” and “Flower dome,” that I have just
described, are not the only attractions of the bay south gardens.
A
bird's eye view of the Bay south Gardens, from the nearby Ferris
Wheel called “Singapore Flyer,” actually makes a visitor aware of
the enormity of this project. Besides the two caterpillar like glass
dome conservatories, what catches attention of every visitor, are
eighteen huge steel structures called supertrees, erected in groups
at three spots in the gardens. The groups have been named as “
Supertree Grove,” “Golden Garden” and “Silver Garden.”
These so called super trees are actually giant steel towers varying
between 20 meters to 50 meters in height and are shaped to look like
trees. Each of this supertree is designed to have thousands of plant
species growing up their vein-like cladding. The super trees also
serve the purpose of rainwater harvesting for the gardens below and
are embedded with sustainable energy and water technologies integral
to the cooling of the Cooled Conservatories. The tallest supertrees
have restaurants and bars in true Singapore style, where you can dine
with a magnificent view.
There
is an area called “canopy” in between the two conservatories.
From here a path leads to the southwest. I start walking along the
path. The Supergrove cluster of supertrees is located here. At the
center of the grove are the two tallest supertrees. Clustered around
them are 10 other superthrees, which would mean that this cluster has
12 supertrees in all. The other two clusters of supertrees are much
smaller, each having just 3 supertrees. The management calls the
supertrees as vertical gardens with each of them studded with
vertical display on walls of of tropical flowering climbers,
epiphytes and ferns making them appear almost spectacular. I reach
the tallest supertree in the center. There is a lift available for
going to the top. In few seconds, I reach the top balcony. The view
from here is just breathtaking to say the least. Off course, towards
west, only thing that I can see are the giant triplets of the “Marina
Bay sands” hotel and casino. To the north is the Marina Barage and
in other directions magnificent view of the bay and tall buildings of
the downtown dominate the view. I have a closer look at the steel
tower made from welded steel pipes. The surfaces are entirely covered
with creeper plants and orchids. Some of them displaying brightly
coloured beautiful flowers.
Between
two tallest towers a walk way in the sky is suspended with help of
steel cables. The path, about 3 or 4 feet wide and at a height of 22
meter, shakes slightly and has some horizontal movement too, making
a walk on ,it a thrilling and exciting experience. This is perhaps as
nearest as we humans can go nearest to walking in sky and I love it.
On the other side, the skywalk reaches the other tall supertree. The
view below shows a well manicured chain of small gardens linked by
pathways and the whole thing look like an emerald necklace, around
the supertree grove. I reach the other tower and swiftly come down by
another lift. Ahead of me is a beautiful manicured lawn and beyond
that a chain of restaurants with exotic names like Hill Street coffee
shop and Peach garden noodle house. No place in Singapore can survive
without eating places nearby. Even with so many restaurants here,
locals have been complaining about lack of food courts here. I decide
to make around of the emerald necklace of gardens that surroud the
grove.
These
gardens, in all 10 in number are all themed gardens, each having its
own theme like Indian Garden, Chinese Garden, Malay Garden,
California garden, Colonial Garden and World of Palms. On the west
boundary of the park a beautiful small lake has been created with a
strip like shape (parhaps as an after thought) but with good
landscaping. It has been named as Dragonfly lake. The Landscaping is
superb and I decide to linger there for few minutes, as I find it
quite relaxing.
The
time is around 7 pm and I decide to visit one of the restaurants on
the other side. I order Nonya vegetable curry with rice. However
instead of the rice being served separately, it has been added in the
curry itself in the form of cheese or tofu alike cubes, cooked from
finely ground rice flour. Nevertheless, the curry is very tasty and I
am satisfied with the food.
After
my food, I come out on the lawn outside. The view has changed
completely. In front me there is a backdrop of tens of thousands of
lights sparkling from the rooms of “Marina Bay sands” triplets.
In front of them stand the supertrees now lighted with sparkling and
soft glowing lights of different hues and colours. The spectacle of
colour, texture and fragrance is a mesmerizing experience for me. I
relax a bit on the lawns. Exactly at 7.45 pm, there is an
announcement on the public address system and the light and show
starts with pleasing music that can be heard clearly. The group of 6
or 8 supertrees ahead of me suddenly light up with thousands of
lights of different colours and start dancing in tune and rhythm of
the music. I find the spectacle fascinating and quite pleasing for
the senses.
The
show ends in 15 minutes and all the supertrees now glow up making the
view grand and superlative. With a heavy heart, I get up and start
walking towards to underground car park. My visit to the Bay south
gardens finally over. It was no doubt an unforgettable experience.
(Concluded)
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